The Ueno Royal Museum is a familiar destination for art afficionados, frequently feted for its roster of world-class exhibitions featuring such masters as Vermeer and Van Gogh. Although located a mere three-minute walk from the Park Gate exit at JR Ueno Station, the museum is situated in a comparatively calm corner of the park, away from the bustle of the Ueno Zoo and the ever-popular natural history museums. After checking out the art, make sure to stop by Café mori, secreted away on the museum’s ground floor. Serving a curated menu of sweets and hand-brewed pour-over coffee, Café mori is one museum café that’s well worth a visit in its own right, to enjoy tranquil moment of Zen.
The Ueno Royal Museum’s café opened in its present form back in 1993. Although the shop was dubbed “Kissa Mori” upon opening, staff soon took to referring to it as “Café mori,” and the name stuck. This affability extends to all aspects of the café. Cozy and casual, the café features five tables and four window-side seats. The monochrome white walls make for a refreshing space, illuminated by plenty of natural lighting that streams in through the large, panoramic window. Complementing the streamlined interior décor, the café’s menu consists of a minimalistic menu of drinks and desserts. A study in refined simplicity, Café mori is the perfect setting to relax and reflect on the museum’s exhibitions.
Café mori’s bright interior features an abundance of sunlight and pristine white walls that evoke an artist’s canvas.
The
aromatic, flavorful coffee in this little café is always served piping hot,
freshly brewed with beans sourced from Caravan Coffee, the storied old roastery
with nearly a century of history in Yokohama. The selection of specialty coffee
beans varies depending on the day, with each cup painstakingly hand-poured to
perfection.
According
to Sachiko Oyanagi, communications officer for the Ueno Royal Museum: “From the
outset, the museum conceptually wanted to provide a time and place for visitors
to discuss artwork over a quality cup of coffee. The café has evolved over the
years, and now, each cup of coffee is poured by hand. We like to think that our
coffee rivals (or is even better than) the fare served up at any fancy Third
Wave cafe.”
New
staff members reportedly receive rigorous training under the café’s veteran
baristas. It takes two or three months of instruction before a rookie is
allowed to make their pour-over debut, and that’s even including all the time
spent practicing at home (many of the café’s employees maintain impressive
personal collections of coffee equipment to further hone their skills).
As Oyanagi explains, “I think their hard work is evident from the first sip. We also conduct surprise taste tests, to ensure that the flavor profile of each cup is perfectly balanced.”
The intimate museum café format means each cup of coffee is made to order, and poured with care. Individual coffees (¥500) are served with a mini cookie. The cake set (¥900) includes a drink and a dessert.
A charming selection of herbal tea and souvenirs
The café doubles as a gift shop, with a small but impeccable lineup of stationery and original museum merch. Discerning connoisseurs will want to collect all the delightful wares from Japan and abroad, each a work of art in its own right.
Left: A writing pad featuring Takamori Saigo (the prominent 19th century figure with a deep connection to Ueno Park), developed exclusively by the Ueno Royal Museum. Right: An assortment of Japanese stationery, colored pencils, and other art supplies. In March, the café also offers a special collection of products to commemorate the VOCA (Vision of Contemporary Art) exhibition.
Apart from coffee, the herbal tea and apple tart are particular favorites on Café mori’s menu. Come March, a limited-time Sakura Mont Blanc joins the menu, and in May, visitors are afforded a stunning view of the Satsuki azaleablossoms which fill the café’s picturesque window, a living landscape to be enjoyed throughout the changing seasons. Although a museum ticket is required to access the café, it’s well worth the price of admission for an afternoon of art and coffee. Whether you visit the exhibition or café first is up to you. Either way, Café mori is a secret oasis of serenity, hiding in plain sight in Ueno Park.
Rose & Hibiscus tea (¥650)
Text: Maika Mori Photos: Fumitaka Miyoshi
Café mori
Address: Ueno Royal Museum, 1-2 Ueno Park, Taito-ku, Tokyo Hours: 10:00 a.m. – 4:45 p.m (varies by season) Closed: Irregular closures may apply *Museum admission fee required. www.ueno-mori.org/shopcafe/
Note: Information in this article current as of February 2020.
