ASAKURA Fumio is a sculptor well known for such major works as “Grave keeper” and the portrait sculpture of “OKUMA Shigenobu”, founder of Waseda University. The sculptor loved cats and continued to work based in Yanaka. He certainly left his mark in Ueno. Let us go find ASAKURA’s work that can be seen in and around Ueno.
Looking for Fumio ASAKURA’s sculptures in Ueno
ASAKURA Fumio is Japan’s major sculptor. He studied at Tokyo School of Fine Arts (now Tokyo University of the Arts) and went sketching at the Ueno Zoological Gardens. His works have strong ties with Ueno. We took a walk starting from Ueno Station in search of ASAKURA’s sculptures.
“Three phases” was originally exhibited with the subtitle “Part of a monument”. The portrait statue of the composer “TAKI Rentaro” can be found at the right-hand side of the main entrance at the Sogakudo of the Former Tokyo Music School.The portrait statue of the composer “Rentaro Taki” can be found at the right-hand side of the main entrance at the Sogakudo Concert Hall of the former Tokyo Music School.
When you get off the train at JR Ueno Station, the first thing you will see is “Three phases”. The statue stands near the central exit, close to track No. 16. The work depicts a group of three young women expressing “intellect, emotion, will” and is considered one of ASAKURA’s most important work. It was gifted to Ueno Station, as the station opened in 1883, the same year ASAKURA was born. When you exit through the central exit you will see “Wing”, the well- known rendezvous spot. The statue depicting a graceful woman spreading her arms in the air has been watching over the station ever since it was installed in 1958. It serves as the symbol of Ueno Station.
When you saunter down towards Ueno Park, you will find the portrait statue of “TAKI Rentaro” at the Sogakudo of the Former Tokyo Music School. If you hop over to the east side of the station and visit the Taito Art Gallery located on the first floor of the Taito Ward Office, you can find more works by ASAKURA on display.
Now that you have seen the sculptures that dot the Ueno neighborhood, it is time to visit the studio cum residence that ASAKURA set up in Yanaka, which definitely warrants a visit. It is a five-minute walk from Nippori Station, or 25 minutes from Ueno Station. The ASAKURA Museum of Sculpture’s façade is painted an impressive black. Every detail of the museum is brimming with ASAKURA’s sense of aesthetic, so it is quite fitting to call the museum itself the “work” of ASAKURA.
It is a comfortable walk from Ueno Station to the ASAKURA Museum of Sculpture.
The site measures some 132 square meters and consists of a studio wing and the residential wing where ASAKURA lived. The studio ceiling is 8.5 meters high and made of reinforced concrete. It houses a number of his major works including the “Grave keeper”, the portrait statue of statesman and diplomat “KOMURA Jutaro” which measures some 3.7 meters high. Shafts of light from the gently arched windows shift according to the time of day, giving a different nuance to the works.
The studio is lined with numerous sculptures by ASAKURA. Right hand side, beneath the floor where the statue of “KOMURA Jutaro” is installed, there is an electric lift table which was used by ASAKURA when he was working on his sculptures. “Grave keeper” The photograph shows the plaster model which was designated a National Cultural Property.Portrait statue of “OKUMA Shigenobu”The courtyard viewed from the studio. High-quality logs were split in half and glued onto the walls to create a visual accent around the windows.
Next to the studio is the library. The walls are fitted with floor-to-ceiling bookshelves. When the art critic IWMURA Toru, who was ASAKURA’s teacher, died, ASAKURA took over IWAMURA’s collection to prevent the books from getting scattered and lost. The library shelves house IWAMURA’s foreign books.
ASAKURA was close to the calligrapher WU Changshuo and his work is hanging on the wall of the reception room. Walk past the this room and enter the corridor, and you enter the private quarters. There is a living room, a tea-ceremony room and a bedroom facing the courtyard. On the second floor is the “Natural maind room” which was ASAKURA’s hobby space; on the third floor, the “Sunrize room” was used to entertain guests. The “Natural maind room” is unembellished with a dignified atmosphere, while the “Sunrize room” is luxurious and ornate, creating a beautiful contrast. The building was designed so that the courtyard could be viewed from the upper floors, too.
The library next to the studio. The bookcase walls are lined with valuable books.The Tennoji side entrance of the residential wing opens towards the Tennoji temple.A view from the second floor “Natural maind room”. The courtyard shows a different face depending on the vantage point.
The spirit of ASAKURA is very much alive in the architecture
The ASAKURA Museum of Sculpture consists of the studio wing, a reinforced concrete construction, and the residential wing which is a wooden architecture. At first glance, the two seem to be completely different — but they come together in beautiful harmony. Senior curater TOBARI Taiko commented: “I think ASAKURA was a rational person. His studio symbolizes his philosophy. Though he wasn’t a fan of concrete he uses it without hesitation to serve his purpose. Still, we can feel ASAKURA’s philosophy and aesthetics are very much alive. He manages to express beauty within necessity. For example, look at the way he chose warm hues and material for the walls. He doesn’t hesitate to split up logs to accentuate the windows. It is ASAKURA’s style of creating harmony. You can find such attempts throughout the building. We call the technique ‘Asakurique”. How can spaces that seem so dissimilar blend in without causing any rupture? Maybe it is ASAKURA’s underlying aesthetics that connects them together. I spend a lot of time working at the museum. But even now, I am constantly making new discoveries. It is a magical space full of surprises”.
The studio’s ceiling. The window on the north side is gently curved, providing a steady source of natural light.The “Orchid room” on the second floor of the studio. The room was used as a green house for cultivating Asian orchids.“Sleep” ASAKURA was devoted to cats and worked on many “cat works”.
The ASAKURA Museum of Sculpture which consists of both concrete and wooden architectures, is upheld by a consistent set of aesthetics which covers every aspect including the building and small details like stairs and handrails. Why not take a stroll from Ueno Station to the ASAKURA Museum of Sculpture? It is a great way to view his work and get in touch with his beliefs and
Text: OKUDA Takahiro Photos: MIYOSHI Fumitaka
ASAKURA Museum of Sculpture
Hours: 9:30-16:30 (Last entry 16:00) Closed: Mondays and Thursdays (Next day, if scheduled closing falls on a public holiday), Year-end and New Year May close temporarily for exhibition changes Admission: General 500 yen (300 yen) Elementary, middle and high school students 250 yen (150 yen) ※The price in parentheses is for groups with 20 or more people. ※ Please remove shoes when entering building, and make sure to wear socks. Slippers or room shoes are not allowed. ※ The rooftop garden may be closed due to bad weather and other reasons. http://www.taitocity.net/zaidan/asakura/
This article is based on information available as of February 2020. (The museum is currently closed as of April 2020. Please refer to the website for future schedules.)
