Many temples and shrines can be found in the neighborhood of Ueno Park. If you enter their precincts and look closely, you might even be able to discover here and there the hollyhock crests of the Tokugawa clan, the reason being that back in the Edo period, this area used to be the expansive grounds of Kaneiji Temple, one of the family temples of the Tokugawa shogun. Ueno was even then known as one of the best sites to enjoy cherry blossoms, and was a popular site for outings by the people of Edo. Temples and shrines built in the Edo period still remain in the park, and events to experience Edo culture are also held by institutions in the park such as the Tokyo National Museum. Enjoy the atmosphere of Edo in Ueno, where over 400 years of rich history is concentrated.
Did you know that an opulent Shinto shrine has presided over Ueno Park since the Edo period, a mere stone’s throw from the Ueno Zoo? Named the Ueno Toshogu, the shrine honors the memory of Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa shogunate. Originally erected in 1627 in fulfillment of Ieyasu’s last will and testament, the shrine was rebuilt by Tokugawa Iemitsu (the 3rd Tokugawa shogun) in 1651 as an exceptionally lavish site of worship open to the general Edo public. Having survived centuries of war and natural disasters largely unscathed, the shrine is a rare window into yesteryear, and a hidden “power spot” treasured by discerning audiences. True to the shrine’s reputation as a bringer of luck, we had the good fortune to meet up with priest Maki Saga for an insider’s tour of the Ueno Toshogu’s sacred grounds.
The Ueno Park and the surrounding area was originally part of the Toeizan Kaneiji temple which served as the bodaiji (family temple) of the Shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu (1542 – 1616). There are many places inside the park that still retain the flavor of the Edo period. The Kiyomizu Kannondo temple, which is located atop the hills of Ueno is the oldest architecture from the time — a remnant of Edo’s glory. It stands on the high ground that overlooks the Shinobazu Pond inside Ueno Park. The Kiyomizu Kannondo temple makes an appearance in Hiroshige’s series of ukiyo-e woodblock prints “Meisho Edo Hyakkei (One Hundred Famous Prints of Edo)”. A trip to Kiyomizu Kannondo is like travelling back in time to visit the old Edo.
Hatsumode is the Japanese custom of making the year’s first visit to a Shinto shrine during the early days of the new year. For some, the visit is to a Buddhist temple instead. Given that this was the first new year of the Reiwa Era, this year saw many visitors flocking to these sacred sites, but the big turnouts were not just limited to shrines or temples. There is a hatsumode spot in Ueno popular among those in the know: the Tokyo National Museum (TNM), a venue that could be called the “sanctuary of Japanese art.” The TNM holds a special New Year’s program every year called “New Year’s Celebration at the Tokyo National Museum (Hakubutsukan ni Hatsumode ).” Other than traditional performing arts such as taiko Japanese drum performances and shishimai lion dance, the museum’s collections related to eto, the Chinese Zodiac, as well as lucky omens are on exhibit during that time, attracting throngs of locals and people from all around Japan. If you want to fully enjoy a traditional Japanese New Year, why not mark a visit to the TNM on your calendar for next year? The many bringers of good luck will be sure to make you feel blessed and content.
