Ueno is a hill rich with trees and flowers, where birds chirp to their heart’s content. The neighborhood of Ueno is full of spots where you can sense the four seasons of Japan through cherry blossoms and plum blossoms, as well as sights such as the big camphor tree and peony garden of Ueno Toshogu shrine, and the garden of the ASAKURA Museum of Sculpture. Events where the changing seasons can be sensed in a cultural way are also held in various places, such as the New Year’s celebration event at the Tokyo National Museum. Ueno is the place to go to enjoy the seasonal attractions of Japan.
Did you know that an opulent Shinto shrine has presided over Ueno Park since the Edo period, a mere stone’s throw from the Ueno Zoo? Named the Ueno Toshogu, the shrine honors the memory of Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa shogunate. Originally erected in 1627 in fulfillment of Ieyasu’s last will and testament, the shrine was rebuilt by Tokugawa Iemitsu (the 3rd Tokugawa shogun) in 1651 as an exceptionally lavish site of worship open to the general Edo public. Having survived centuries of war and natural disasters largely unscathed, the shrine is a rare window into yesteryear, and a hidden “power spot” treasured by discerning audiences. True to the shrine’s reputation as a bringer of luck, we had the good fortune to meet up with priest Maki Saga for an insider’s tour of the Ueno Toshogu’s sacred grounds.
One of the favorite pastimes in Ueno is enjoying the changing seasons, including the cherry blossoms that celebrate spring. Fumio Asakura was a sculptor who became the driving force of Japanese modern sculpture, and was the first sculptor to receive the Order of Culture. The garden at his studio and residence is a perfect place where you can appreciate the beauty of the four seasons. We visited the Asakura Museum of Sculpture in early spring.
Hatsumode is the Japanese custom of making the year’s first visit to a Shinto shrine during the early days of the new year. For some, the visit is to a Buddhist temple instead. Given that this was the first new year of the Reiwa Era, this year saw many visitors flocking to these sacred sites, but the big turnouts were not just limited to shrines or temples. There is a hatsumode spot in Ueno popular among those in the know: the Tokyo National Museum (TNM), a venue that could be called the “sanctuary of Japanese art.” The TNM holds a special New Year’s program every year called “New Year’s Celebration at the Tokyo National Museum (Hakubutsukan ni Hatsumode ).” Other than traditional performing arts such as taiko Japanese drum performances and shishimai lion dance, the museum’s collections related to eto, the Chinese Zodiac, as well as lucky omens are on exhibit during that time, attracting throngs of locals and people from all around Japan. If you want to fully enjoy a traditional Japanese New Year, why not mark a visit to the TNM on your calendar for next year? The many bringers of good luck will be sure to make you feel blessed and content.
Mice. What’s the first thing that comes to mind when you hear this word? While there are popular cartoon characters such as Mickey Mouse, most people probably have an image of annoying creatures that show no hesitation in helping themselves to our food. While mice may lament their hard lot, they have actually been viewed affectionately from days of old as a presence that brings happiness and good fortune. At the “New Year’s Celebration at the Tokyo National Museum,” a program held by the Tokyo National Museum (TNM) for the 17th time in 2020, a spotlight was placed on mice since this is the Year of the Mouse according to the Chinese Zodiac. An exhibit titled “The Many Faces of Mice” showcased 55 works associated with mice from among the museum’s collection. “The more you study them, the more interesting they become,” says Masanori Kawano, a researcher at the museum. We asked him about the appeal of mice.
The Ueno Park and the surrounding area was originally part of the Toeizan Kaneiji temple which served as the bodaiji (family temple) of the Shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu (1542 – 1616). There are many places inside the park that still retain the flavor of the Edo period. The Kiyomizu Kannondo temple, which is located atop the hills of Ueno is the oldest architecture from the time — a remnant of Edo’s glory. It stands on the high ground that overlooks the Shinobazu Pond inside Ueno Park. The Kiyomizu Kannondo temple makes an appearance in Hiroshige’s series of ukiyo-e woodblock prints “Meisho Edo Hyakkei (One Hundred Famous Prints of Edo)”. A trip to Kiyomizu Kannondo is like travelling back in time to visit the old Edo.
