The Ueno Park and the surrounding area was originally part of the Toeizan Kaneiji temple which served as the bodaiji (family temple) of the Shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu (1542 – 1616). There are many places inside the park that still retain the flavor of the Edo period. The Kiyomizu Kannondo temple, which is located atop the hills of Ueno, is the oldest architecture from the time — a remnant of Edo’s glory. It stands on the high ground that overlooks the Shinobazu Pond inside Ueno Park. The Kiyomizu Kannondo temple makes an appearance in Utagawa Hiroshige’s series of ukiyo-e woodblock prints “Meisho Edo Hyakkei (One Hundred Famous View of Edo)”. A trip to Kiyomizu Kannondo is like travelling back in time to visit the old Edo.
The temple enshrines the miraculous thousand-armed Senju Kannon
The temple visit begins with a stop at the main temple building.
The Kiyomizu Kannondo’s principal image is Senju Kannon Bosatsu,
or the thousand-armed goddess of mercy. It is said that Eshin Sozu (942-1017),
the high-ranking Buddhist prelate of the Heian era (794 -1185) carved the
Kannon with his own hands. The statue was originally enshrined in the
Kiyomizudera temple in Kyoto, before it was brought to the Kiyomizu Kannondo in
Ueno. The Kannon is normally withheld from public view but unveiled for the
special temple fair “Hatsuuma Horaku (religious service on the first day
of the horse)” which is held on the first “day of the horse” every February.
Why is it shown only on this day? The date is derived from a miraculous parable related to Taira no Morihisa who was a warrior of the Heike clan. Morihisa who was a devout worshipper of the Kannon was on the brink of being beheaded at Yuigahama beach in Kamakura, when the sword that was being brought down upon him suddenly broke. His life was spared. It so happened that the miracle happened in the year of the horse, on the day of the horse and at the time of the horse (around noon). Thus, the first day of the horse was designated as the auspicious day for unveiling the statue.
An amulet features a meticulous reproduction of the image of the Senju Kannon Bosatsu (Kannon of a thousand arms), the temple’s object of devotion.
If you take a careful look inside the main temple building you will find numerous buddha images surrounding the miniature shrine where the Senju Kannon Bosatsu (Kannon of a thousand arms) is enshrined. There are the “Nijuhachibushu (28 protectors of Kannon)” who are the 28 attendant deities that protect the Kannon and her worshippers. You can also find the “Kosodate Kannon”, or the goddess of child-rearing, who receives homage and is sought after by women who want to conceive, and those praying for a safe delivery. By rough count there are more than 30 images housed inside. You seldom get to pray for so many Buddhas at one spot. Few temples in Tokyo have the full set of 28 protectors of Kannon, let alone are open to the public.
The principal image of the temple is a figure of Senju Kannon, the thousand-armed goddess of mercy, ready to remove every problem and hardship. Thus, there are many kinds of amulets on offer.
Why simulate the Kiyomizudera Temple in Kyoto?
After you have paid your respects and stepped out of the main temple building, you can enjoy the refreshing vista that looks out onto the Shinobazu Pond. The front part of the main temple building juts out towards the slope of Ueno hill, offering a magnificent view. The structure was built adopting the “butai-zukuri” building style—with a platform supported by beams, like a stage—which was used in constructing the Kiyomizudera temple in Kyoto.
The principal image of the temple has ties with the Kiyomizudera temple; and the temple that houses the image was built copying the same architectural style. According to the priest at Kaneiji temple, this was no coincidence. In fact, it was what the high priest Jigen Daishi Tenkai (1536?–1643), who opened Kaneiji temple, had aimed at from the beginning. Tenkai wanted to make Keneiji temple a place where the common folk of Edo could offer their prayers and have a good time, too. He imagined the hills of Ueno could replicate the mountain ranges of Mt. Hiei in Kyoto; he appointed Shinobazu Pond to stand in for the great Lake Biwa. He made plans for Kaneiji temple by re-creating Mt. Hiei and the surrounding scenic places here in Ueno using the Japanese art of “mitate”, or borrowed images. Based on his project, Kiyomizu Kannondo, which simulated Kyoto’s Kiyomizudera temple, was completed in 1631.
Originally, the temple stood upon a small hill called “Suribachiyama” inside the present Ueno Park. It was moved to the current location in 1694—and the temple has remained unchanged since then. It is the oldest temple still standing on the hills of Ueno. The temple survived the Great Fire of Edo, was unscathed by the Battle of Ueno in 1868 that turned the whole area around Kaneiji into a battle ground, and remained intact despite the devastation of the Pacific War—a truly amazing feat.
The Kiyomizu Kannondo was built in the image of Kiyomizudera temple in Kyoto. Naturally, the trail that climbs up from the Shinobazu Pond toward the temple was named “Kiyomizuzaka (Kiyomizu slope)”.A scene depicting the Battle of Ueno. The two objects that appear upper right are cannon balls that were used by the Satsuma and Choshu forces.
Do in Edo as the “Edokko” do. Enjoy the view from the “Tsuki no matsu (moon-shaped pine)” and throw some “negaidama (wishing balls)”
This is the second-generation “Tsuki no matsu (moon-shaped pine)”
Taking center stage is the “Tsuki no matsu (moon-shaped pine)” that was famously depicted in Utagawa Hiroshige’s ukiyo-e woodblock prints. The original Tsuki no matsu was destroyed by a typhoon during the Meiji period. The current pine tree is a second generation Tsuki no matsu that was replaced in December 2012. Skilled Edo gardeners trained the pine tree into a shape resembling a full moon, which must have satisfied the local Edokko town folk, known for their smart taste. Stand on the platform, look out and capture the image of the Bentendo temple that stands on an island in the middle of Shinobazu Pond through the “Tsuki no matsu” circle. It is a pastime that must have been enjoyed by Edo locals back then. It is definitely a view worth seeing.
Another thing that you should try when you visit the Kiyomizu Kannondo, is the “negaidama (wishing balls)” (500 yen). You are supposed to make a wish while you throw a ball shaped like otedama—small bean bags used in a traditional children’s game—aiming at a moon shaped circle placed below the platform. If you manage to get your negaidama to safely land on the circle, your wish will come true. There is a Japanese phrase, “Jumping off the stage of Kiyomizudera temple” which is akin to “taking the plunge” in English. During the Edo period, it seems there were some people who actually jumped off the stage at Kiyomizudera temple, trying to make their wish come true. The “negaidama” in Ueno follows the historical escapade in spirit. The wishing ball toss began a few years ago as a way to portray the fun-loving spirit of the people of Edo.
You get five tries. I carefully aimed at the circle, wishing hard. But it’s not as easy as it may seem. You need a lot of strength; my negaidama hardly reached the circle. What you need is to be bold and daring. My advice is to go for it and “take the plunge.”
A dancing Shishi (lion) will deliver your fortune when you ask for a “Shishimai omikuji (Lion-dance fortune).”The “Shidarezakura fortunes” are named after the “Shushikizakura (Yae benishidare )”, weeping cherry blossoms, behind the main temple building.
